Day 11

Our B&B last night was the ChocoPorto a 254 year old farm house.  I asked what the origin of the name was, expecting a local legend about some 250 year old historically significant event.  The real answer actually appealed to me as it reflected a combination of the owner’s love of Chocolate and Port.

A plaque outside explained a family reunion of the Bernier’s from 1656 to 1960.

Breakfast was once again a sight to behold and a pleasure to consume. 

The B&B breakfast culture in this part of Quebec is astonishing.  We have consistently enjoyed remarkable presentation and delicious consumption.  Many of the B&B’s were chosen based on their recommendation as ‘Bienvenuwe Cyclist’ accommodation in the Route Verte book.  Cycling in Quebec is really a treat.

Our route today began on the paved shoulder of a local highway with a most uncharacteristic head wind.  It was quite cool as we started out but the sun was shining and we eventually ran out of wind to complain about.

Some of the views of the St. Lawrence were really beautiful as we came close to the beach in places.

At one point for a few Kilometers the route took us onto a more characteristic cycling trail through a beautiful park like area and delightful picnic areas.

On this section of the trail we were quite relieved to avoid the cleverly disguised tractor and bicycle trap that was ready to funnel us into the waiting wire surrounded container.

This area of Quebec must have a high proportion of agriculture involved in the dairy industry.  Everywhere you look there are silos corn and alfalfa fields.

It must be the time of year for cleaning the omnipresent containment barns of the farming community. One of the most annoying features of the last few days has been the presence of aerosolized, bacteria laden, particulate manure that passes easily through the nasal ciliary apparatus and smashes rudely onto the olfactory surface of the nose.  Yes…IT STINKS….

Tractor pulling wagon for manure dispersal on a local field.

Something had been in the back of my mind the last few days as we cycled through extensive dairying country.  I did not see many cows for all the silos, manure hauling, plastic wrapped bales and corn fields visible.  It suddenly struck me that all the cows were probably in barns where they live in controlled conditions giving maximum opportunity for increased production.

This is in contrast to the scene in New Zealand where the cows are on pasture eating grass and walking all day.  Lots of room for a discussion here.

The sun was just setting as we headed out for supper in this cozy little town on the shore of the St. Lawrence.

 

Day 10

An exciting exit from Old Quebec awaits anyone launching a weighted bicycle down the steep cobblestone streets on route to the ferry to Levis across the St. Lawrence River.  I made sure I was not eating a sandwich and braking with one hand. (Some of you will understand this reference!)

We had figured out the ferry yesterday so it was a simple ticket purchase, wait in line for 3 minutes and onto the ferry.

The view of Old Quebec and the Hotel Frontenac is spectacular from the river.

Ten minutes later we were riding off the ferry and the bike trail was right in front of us.

The Route Verte today started out on perfect separated bike lanes through Levis and then turned onto the highway and will remain mostly on paved shoulder from here on.  The highway was not busy, vehicle speed was respectable and big trucks were limited so our ride was no problem.

After a few hours of riding along we were getting ready for a coffee break. A couple of little towns we had passed through did not look promising for a nice fresh coffee.  As we rounded a corner we saw what I thought must have been a mirage, for right before our eyes was a sign advertizing latte and espresso.

We entered the small shop and sure enough there was an espresso machine.

The photographer who owned the small shop made us the most delicious cappuccino while we browsed through his photography books and pictures.

A curious color scheme dominated houses in the whole town.  Almost every one was brilliant white. The photographer explained in French why this was and I chose to understand that a large pallet of white paint had been delivered years ago and people had carried on the tradition.

 

At one point we realized that we had forgotten our cheese and yogurt in the fridge in Hotel St. Anne in Old Quebec.  Fortunately we found a small shop offering delicious local cheddar and some yogurt so our lunch was complete.

If it is possible to pick the perfect weather for a bike ride today might qualify.  The sun was often shaded by light cloud and never became too hot.  Now.. let me tell you about the wind....  Imagine a stiff breeze about 25km. per hour heading, quite coincidentally in the exact same direction as your bicycle… Impossible you say… In some miraculous way it happened today, breaking all the cycling rules of wind direction. We spent extra time having a break so we could delay arrival at our B&B at an appropriate time.

Day 9

No B&B breakfast today but Quebec City has lots to offer in the culinary department.  Our hotel is in the shadow of the  Hotel Frontenac, one of the great old CP hotels in Canada.  We are in the center of action in Vieux Quebec so a short walk will offer up many options.  We chose a place with healthy butter and chocolate croissants.

Even though there was no bike riding today my legs felt nearly as tired from walking, standing and climbing up and down the 'break neck' stairs from upper to lower Quebec.  We spent the morning on an interesting historical tour outlining the last 400 years in 2+ hours.

Note Cathy paying close attention and getting ready for a question.

 

The oldest house in Quebec City, now a restaurant.

This is such a superlative place to immerse oneself in Quebec and Canadian history. Carole did a great job of compressing the stories and answering questions.

The afternoon was taken up exploring shops, wandering up and down streets that could have been in many European countries.

We stocked up on supplies for tomorrow’s ride to Cap-Saint-Ignace at a delightful market offering local produce.   

I discussed garlic with a local producer and marveled at his braiding technique.

Some of the drivers at the market were not always paying attention while sitting at a stop light.

 

Day 8

Today began with another B&B breakfast in a lovely sunroom positioned so the morning sun illuminated our orange juice, croissants and pancakes.

Our hosts had built this place starting with a skeleton and retrofitting for a purpose built B&B.  It was a real work of love as they completed all aspects of the construction themselves. As well as having a large room, comfortable bed and a great sleep it was also the cheapest accommodation so far.

Today’s route included more linear, virtually curve free riding with either packed crusher dust or paved surface sprinkled with small river crossings .  As we approached Quebec City the terrain changed to hills, swinging bridges, waterfalls and rivers.

After numerous confusing attempts to follow the Velo signs, and many questions to fellow cyclists we arrived at Old Quebec.  Our first view of Quebec City came a few km. away where we could see the bridges off in the distance.

 

We crossed the Pont de Quebec where an old iron bridge with rusted crumbling iron struts miraculously held us from tumbling into the St. Lawrence.

For those who have been here you can appreciate the leg cramping torture of pushing our pannier laden bikes up to our hotel.  It was a great relief to arrive at the Hotel Sainte Anne, shower and prepare for our evening of exploring.  The old buildings are quite beautiful and speak of a much different time.  Soon we are off to supper.